Magical & Unforgettable Egypt
A Travel Reflection on Luxor, Cairo, Alexandria, and Memphis.
My fiancé and I (yep, you read that right, eek!) have returned from a magical 9-day Egyptian holiday. It was a fever dream of cinnamon and myrrh, of ancient tombs and busy merchant-filled streets, all against the backdrop of the great Nile River. We traveled from Cairo to Luxor and back again, from Mit Rahina (the ancient capital city of Memphis) to the Mediterranean port-city of Alexandria. Each day, we teetered between exhausted and whatever level exists beyond Cloud 9. It was, for so many reasons, the most magical trip of our lives.
From the moment we arrived in early March, I began receiving messages from friends and acquaintances, “Is Egypt worth it? Do you recommend it?”
Yes, yes, I do, but Egypt is not for the faint of heart.
If you’re planning to travel to Egypt, you’ll find that the beautiful, out-of-this-world sights will also be lined with the memory of relentless vendors, asking not once or twice, but 3,000 times if you want to buy or try their products. It’s exhausting.
When you’re admiring historical sites — even after you’ve paid an entrance fee and think you’re safe — you will be scammed. It will be by someone who looks official, like a security guard or police officer. They’ll offer to take your photo next to the pyramid or some great monument. You’ll think they’re being nice, but before you know it, you’ll be the subject of a photo shoot you didn’t ask for. When it’s over, when your phone is finally handed back to you, this person will expect a tip. And what you first hand them will not be enough and they’ll ask for more money, and you give it because … well, what the fuck else are you supposed to do?
You will be ogled at and harassed by men, and it will feel violating and overwhelming. Men will brazenly ask your partner, “How many camels for her?” or comment on how he’s a “lucky guy.” Some will even stand right up to your face, reeking of tobacco and garlic, and tell you how beautiful you are, or that you look like “Shakira.” It will be emotionally depleting, and you’ll eventually wonder if you should pretend you don’t speak English, or that you’re mute or deaf, just to get some peace.
You will lose your temper, undoubtedly, because your “no” will not be considered. You’ll hate succumbing to your anger, but you won’t be able to help it. At some point, you’ll just have enough.
But, if you can handle seeing the poverty — witnessing the striking difference between classes — if you can handle having to tip every time you use the toilet (make sure to always have small Egyptian pounds on hand) — and if you can handle the crazy drivers that do not adhere to traffic lines and somehow, miraculously, don’t cause a massive car crash, then yes - yes, you should go!
For those of you seriously considering a trip, here are our Top 3 Tips and a few of our favorite memories from this magical and unforgettable trip, to get you started.
1. Limit Your Time in Cairo
Cairo is a massive, highly populated, and vibrant city. There are plenty of things to see, but for two ancient history nerds, we wished we had limited our time in Cairo and spent more time in the south. That being said, here is what we did enjoy in the county’s capital city.
The Giza Pyramid Complex (£10+ general admission)
We spent almost an entire day at the Pyramids of Giza, arriving at 8:00 AM and not leaving until after 3:00 PM. Of course, nearly 2 hours of our day were spent escaping the heat by indulging in the best lunch of our trip at Khufu’s. This restaurant had the most amazing views of the complex. Afterward, we ate the most decadent French pastries at Ladurée next door. (Lunch, £30 for two, including tip/drinks.)
We saved the Giza Pyramids for our last day in Cairo, despite our hotel being just a few minutes walk from the gate. It’s not that we didn’t enjoy our time here, but after a week of seeing some of the most incredible tombs and structures of the ancient world, I hate to say it, but it felt a bit underwhelming. Still, you gotta go, it’s a must, but maybe do it first before you see the other sites.
The Grand Egyptian Museum ($25) & the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization ($10)
The Grand Egyptian Museum officially opens in July 2025, but we were able to see a preview, and me-oh-my, ‘tis grand indeed. With over 100,000 artifacts, it has been named the largest archeological museum in the world. Sadly, the King Tut exhibit wasn’t open yet. (Insert toddler tantrum) Plan on spending a half-day here, and if you want a yummy and affordable Egyptian lunch, we recommend Zooba onsite. (£11 for lunch for two)
Don’t skip out on the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization, mostly for the Royal Mummy Exhibit. We visited after touring many of the royal tombs in Luxor, and it was rad AF. (No photos allowed)
The Khan el-Khalili bazaar is world famous and quite an experience. We went at night during Ramadan, and it was very crowded. There were times my partner and I felt pretty overwhelmed with the experience. We even got (slightly) lost trying to navigate the narrow paths and had a hell of a time trying to catch a ride home. But it’s still worth a visit.
While in Cairo, we relied on In-Drive (Egypt’s Uber-like app) to get around. We took many 40 to 50-minute rides to see places that were, what we assumed, just across town and only spent £1-£4 per ride. It’s the most hassle-free and affordable way to get around. And most of our meals were under £10 for two, which meant our expenses were beyond reasonable.
There were many Cairo attractions (and sites) we missed during our trip: the Cairo Citadel, the Hanging Church, and the Cave Church. Maybe we’ll see them someday, but the next time we come, we may limit our time in Cairo or skip it altogether. Because at the end of the day, it’s just another busy city, and there is nothing like being in the South.
2. Don’t Skip Luxor (Thebes)
We regret not spending more time in the South and loved our time in Luxor. The city is beautiful, clean, easy to get around, and the history is alive and well.
We stayed at the beautiful Steigenberger Resort Achti, where we enjoyed a bungalow overlooking the Nile River, and where we were engaged. (Insert big smiles) We only paid £197 for three nights — well worth it for this 4-star resort.
Our favorite places…
Karnak Temple Complex (£18.35 for two)
Construction of the complex began in the Middle Kingdom and continued into the Ptolemaic period, over 1,000 years. “Spread across 247 acres, Karnak is a vast labyrinth of temples. Its layout evolved over centuries, with each pharaoh leaving their mark.” Learn more about its history here.
We spent almost four hours walking the grounds of Karnak Temple Complex. We oohed and awwed at every corner. And with the help of our tour guide, whom we felt forced into getting to and ended up really enjoying, we fell in love with the largest religious building ever constructed. You cannot miss this place, and I would suggest going solo (not part of a tour) like we did, because you’ll have plenty of time to take it all in. See more photos from our time there.
Luxor Temple (£15.35 for two)
“Constructed over hundreds of years by the rulers of ancient Egypt, Luxor Temple was the largest and most significant religious center in the ancient Egyptian kingdom.”
At sunset, we enjoyed Luxor Temple, which sits smack-dab in the center of Luxor city. The colors, the ambiance, the…everything, was so dreamy. We spent so much time just sitting and staring at the spaces, pinching ourselves, asking, “Are we really here?” There weren’t too many tourists at night, which meant there were many moments when we had some of the spaces just for ourselves, which made it extra special.
Just across the street is Metro, where you can enjoy a delicious Egyptian dinner on the Nile. We only spent £22 on dinner, which included our drinks, appetizers, main courses, and many other extras. Fantastic!
Valley of the Kings (£112.67 for two — general admission and additional tomb entries)
This was the most expensive attraction of our trip, but it’s understandable why. From the moment you arrive at the secluded property, you feel like you’re witnessing a secret, ancient world. Ordinary entryways, tucked against the desert hillside, give way to incredible, colorful, and elaborate tombs.
We toured six tombs, including King Tut’s, which was pretty basic/small, due to his sudden death, but the main highlight is his mummy. Our favorite tombs were those belonging to Seti and Ramesses III, as they were the most impressive, but each had its very own, remarkable vibe. See more pics.
Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut (£13.51 for two)
We originally scheduled a visit to the Valley of the Queens, but found out the one thing we wanted to see (Tomb of Nefertari) was closed for conservation efforts. But our amazing In-Driver took us to the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut instead, and we were stunned by its beauty.
Hatshepsut was the ancient Egyptian queen who later became a pharaoh. Her temple at Deir al-Bahari sits directly across the Nile from Karnak Temple, and left us speechless, although pretty sweaty from the heat. Learn more.
3. Splurge on a Private Driver
We didn’t visit Egypt as part of a tour. My partner and I researched what we wanted to see and worked out our own plan. That being said, we spent two days with a private driver (via Viator), and would definitely do that again.
We booked a fun half-day tour to Mit Rahina (the ancient capital city of Memphis) and only paid $12 for a private car ride for two. (Seriously!) The driver, Muhammad, picked us up and dropped us off at our hotel, and he was incredible. He not only provided us with ample tips and information, but also made sure we understood where we were going and helped us escape the scams. The three of us even witnessed a massive unidentified flying object over one of the pyramids— a tale for another time.
On our tour, we visited the incredible Saqqara Pyramid Complex (£9.16 general admission), which has the AMAZING Serapeum of Saqqara (£2.75, burial tomb of the sacred bulls of ancient Egypt) and the Pyramid of Djoser/ Step Pyramid. We also visited the Bent, Red, and Black pyramids and the Colossal Statue of Ramses II. (£2) View more photos from our day trip.
The next day, we hired another private driver to take us to the Mediterranean port city of Alexandria. This was a bit more expensive — $50 for two for a full-day tour. What was supposed to be a 2-hour car ride to the sea turned into 3+ hours due to heavy fog shutting down the highway. Luckily, our driver, Meheran, made the experience fun, comfortable, and easy. We may have broken out in a car dance or two.
Once there, we toured the magnificent Catacombs of Kom el Shoqaafa (£3). Took a quick look at the beautiful Bibliotheca Alexandria that pays homage to the original ancient site. Meheran then coordinated a delicious Mediterranean seaside lunch for us at Brazen. Afterward, we headed to Qaitbay Fort (£3) and ended the day with the best pineapple gelato of my life. Seriously, I can’t stop thinking about it.
This was our least favorite day of the trip, but I think that was due to our extremely fatigued bodies and brains. We had been going for a week straight at this point, and it was just a lot. And the delays put our itinerary behind, causing us to miss out on the Alexandria Ancient Roman Theater. Still, I’m happy we went.
Since I was a young girl, I have dreamt of visiting Egypt. Like many, I was obsessed with Ancient Egypt. I even taught myself how to write in hieroglyphs in middle school, believing that someday I’d become a famous Egyptologist.
For me, this trip was a once-in-a-lifetime, have to go before I die — kind of trip. And becoming engaged in the place I dreamt about since I was a child has just made it even more special. So special that my fiancé and I have discussed going back for our honeymoon. (So you may want to consider this part one of an Egypt series.)
If you decide to visit Egypt, there will be moments and places that will test the boundaries of your character and personality. You’ll (for sure) feel exhausted and overwhelmed at times by the country’s vast landscapes and cultural differences, but any negatives you experience will never outweigh the magic of Egypt.
During our trip, we had unpleasant encounters, but we also met many warm, friendly, and beyond hospitable people, and shared many wonderful moments with them. My partner even made friends with a few of our drivers, like our boat captain in Luxor, who now calls himself James’ “little brother.” They’re still texting today, and I wouldn’t be surprised if our paths merged again someday.
There is a richness in Egypt that cannot be duplicated, nor can it be clearly defined. It’s something you must experience. So, if you find yourself wondering “what if,” just go. Go to Egypt and have the time of your life!
Thanks for your travel notes
A wonderful reflection and great travel tips. And I'm so happy for you and James!!!